It’s safe to claim Enrique Olvera as the most globally renowned Mexican Chef. His celebrated fine-dining restaurant Pujol in Mexico City is among the world’s 50 best, and Cosme (review coming soon…) has become New York’s hippest Mexican spot. Cosme was first intended to be a casual joint before it almost accidentally became a trendy upscale destination. With the persistent desire to make his cuisine accessible to everyone, he finally opened Atla in the spring of 2017.
Atla is a casual all-day eatery in an airy space in Noho, serving a modern light Mexican fare for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Think Mexican tapas with a contemporary Olvera/New York twist. The small-plates menu highlights conventional Mexican ingredients and recipes with an emphasis on vegetables and healthy(ish) options. Traditional white ayocote becomes a hummus dip, the signature tostada has no pulled pork but an arctic char on it, and meatballs are made with farro and quail eggs. Atla is an all-day eatery, but I love it best for breakfast or brunch (or even a light lunch). The menu, just as the concept, encourages community, and all dishes are made for sharing.
Small portions: order 2-3 dishes per head
When Atla first opened, I found the food to be disappointing. It was good, but nothing outstanding, especially by Enrique Olvera standards. But every new visit at Atla is better than the last, and the food just keeps getting better and better. The modern Mexican fare is light and simple, but very satisfying, especially for breakfast (paired with their great coffee or the super refreshing coconut licuado). There are still some hit-or-misses, but not if you focus on their more original dishes, i.e. skip the guacamole / quesadilla type orders. Atla also served one of the best dessert bites of 2017: I tried their Corn Tamale dessert the first night it was tested, and it was incredible – it hasn’t left the menu ever since. This subtlety sweet tamale is their signature dessert, like Cosme’s legendary Cornhusk Meringue, and is the dish that will keeps me coming back to Atla.
Atla also has a strong emphasis on drinks, from coffee, licuados and aguas frescas for day-time hangouts, to refreshing mezcal cocktails and michaladas of course.
Atla is best appreciated as as a local breakfast spot (that really reminds me of Olvera’s Eno in Mexico City btw). The sun-drenched, relaxed space is particularly enjoyable during day-time, with floor to ceiling windows overlooking Lafayette street (and outdoor seating in the summer). The 60-seat restaurant has a great welcoming vibe and lofty look, designed with sleek black and natural wood furniture, and stylish greenery along the walls. The overall atmosphere is cool and relaxed, and the service is super friendly.
Walk-in only – No reservations
Atla is a great addition to Noho for its cute vibe and accessible small-plates. The casual spin-off is not as impressive as its Flatiron mega-hit Cosme, but a great space for a breakfast date, solo dining, casual bites or drinks, any time of the day (even late night Thursday-Saturday).
Good option for a first-or-second date!
Open all day:
Mon-Wed: 9am-3:30pm / 5pm-11pm
Thurs-Sat: 9am-3:30pm / 5pm-2am
Sun: 10am-4pm / 5pm-10pm