You know what they call a Quarter Pounder with cheese in France? A Royale with cheese. And you know what they call the best burger on Bleecker Street? A Loyale with Cheese. An epic cheeseburger that has quickly become a New York staple at Chef John Fraser’s latest venture: The Loyal.

John Fraser is amongst the most respected chefs in New York City for his vegetable-forward, Michelin-starred cuisine. After Dovetail, Nix (one of my favorite vegetarian restaurants) and Narcissa, Chef Fraser expanded to the West Village in the former Pagani space, with a new American brasserie concept. At first glance, Fraser’s loyalists (pun intended) may be confused by this New York bistro and its meat-centric fare. Everything from the name to the hearty menu has a gastro-pubby feel to it.

Serves dinner daily and weekend brunch

The loyal appetizers

Must-order bites: P.H, Rolls ($8), Drunken Eggs ($8), Baby Romaine Kale Caesar ($14)

The something-for-everybody menu is full of crowd-pleasers executed with a unique twist: bar snacks, appetizers, a raw bar, pastas and a bunch of comfort-food entrees, including the awesome burger of course, served with a signature giant plum tomato and duck fat tater tots! Not all dishes at The Loyal have a wow factor, but many are incredibly satisfying. The chef creatively cooks up a wide array of modern American dishes with a European touch, all seasonal and shareable.

You can order the pastas as an appetizer or entree portion

Artichoke Capellini, arugula pesto, parmesan (appetizer size $16) The loyal artichoke pasta

Artichoke Capellini, arugula pesto, parmesan (appetizer size $16) 

Truffle Polenta, broccoli, cheddar, sunchokes ($28) The loyal polenta

Truffle Polenta, broccoli, cheddar, sunchokes ($28)

Mushroom Carbonara, pici, trumpets, guanciale (appetizer size $16)

Mushroom Carbonara, pici, trumpets, guanciale (appetizer size $16)

Mushroom Carbonara, pici, trumpets, guanciale (appetizer size $16)

Mushroom Carbonara, pici, trumpets, guanciale (appetizer size $16)

Cauliflower au Poivre, autumn puree, sofrito kale ($22) The Loyal Cauliflower Au Poivre

Cauliflower au Poivre, autumn puree, sofrito kale ($22) – you’ll recognize Chef Fraser’s vegetarian genius in this dish

Loyale with Cheese – Piedmontese Burger, comte, 22-step tomato, duck fat tots ($26) The loyal burger

THE must-order Loyale with Cheese – Piedmontese Burger, comte, 22-step tomato, duck fat tots ($26) 

Loyale with Cheese – Piedmontese Burger, comte, 22-step tomato, duck fat tots ($26) The loyal burger

Loyale with Cheese x2! If you don’t want the duck fat tots side (what’s wrong with you?!) you can order the lobster mash or another side for a small supplement (nothing is wrong with you!)

Stuffed Bistro Mushrooms ($10) The loyal stuffed mushrooms

Stuffed Bistro Mushrooms ($10) – good as a side dish

S’mores Baked Alaska, graham cracker, meringue ($12) The loyal baked alaska

S’mores Baked Alaska, graham cracker, meringue ($12) 

S’mores Baked Alaska, graham cracker, meringue ($12) The loyal baked alaska

Chocolate fluffy goodness inside the S’mores Baked Alaska, graham cracker, meringue ($12)

the loyal sweet potato dessert

Sweet potato dessert

 

A chocolaty take on an Old Fashioned: Willy Wonka Cocktail – bourbon, pecan, dark chocolate bitters ($18)

A chocolaty take on an Old Fashioned: Willy Wonka Cocktail – bourbon, pecan, dark chocolate bitters ($18)

As for drinks, The Loyal serves plenty of local beers and ciders on tap (again – gastro-pubby!) but also a wide selection of wine and interest in-house cocktails. Service is particularly friendly and accommodating.

Despite the white table-cloth and a few formal decor details, The Loyal has a casual tavern vibe (gastro-pubby’s the word!) and a familiar New York touch (the restaurant is designed by Home Studios, behind many of NYC’s most recognizable – gastro-pubby – brownish/tan accented interiors, like my neighborhood favorite for a burger & whiskey: The Spaniard).

Bar seats are saved for walk-ins with full dinner menu

The Loyal dining room

The Loyal dining room

The loyal dining room

The loyal dining room in holiday mode

Dinner at The Loyal works for all kinds of occasions. It gets loud, but the crowd always includes people on (non-intimate) dates, girls/boys’ night out and small group gatherings.

Loyale with Cheese – Piedmontese Burger, comte, 22-step tomato, duck fat tots ($26) The loyal burger

That burger and those duck tots though!