Food Travel Guide – Top Spots in Cartagena

Long gone are the days when Colombia was on every traveler’s blacklist, synonymous with danger and drug cartels. The world is now finally able to discover the beauty of a rejuvenated Colombia which, contrary to popular misconceptions, is among the safest South American countries (if you travel wisely, of course). Colombia is my all-time favorite Latin country to visit for its vibrant local culture, incomparable hospitality and diverse scenery. Along with Medellin, Unesco world heritage site Cartagena de Indias has won my heart. This port town at Colombia’s northern coast is the country’s most visited and popular destination. Tourists from all over the world come to Cartagena to get lost in its romantic walled old city, for its various cultural attractions, its heavenly Caribbean coastline, the buzzing lifestyle… and of course its gastronomy scene, which itself combines Latin, African and Mediterranean influences. Explore Colombia’s Caribbean cuisine at its best in the most picturesque setting with Cartagena’ s top spots!

⇒ The most unique dining experience

• RESTAURANTE INTERNO
  Cárcel de mujeres de San Diego, Calle 39, Barrio San Diego
  (+57) 310 2600134
  www.restauranteinterno.com
  $$$
  ♥♥♥
• 

Everyone deserves a second chance!

Restaurante Interno is the most unique dining experience in Cartagena (Colombia/South America/World?) – and for a great social cause. Interno is the first and only restaurant in the world to be inside… a women’s prison! The restaurant is located in San Diego prison, a facility where female prisoners complete the final months of their sentences before their release. The initiative came from Teatro Interno, a Colombian foundation led by TV actress Johana Bahamon, and Spanish Michelin-starred chef Koldo Miranda, in order to promote the rehabilitation of inmates and their social reintegration. The concept was created to help convicts prepare for life after incarceration, but also to change the judgement and negative public perception about prisoners. Interno defines itself as a “space of reconciliation between prison population and civilian population”. Basically, the motto is : everyone deserves a second chance – and everyone does!

Colorful and joyful (prison!) dining room

Shrimp starter

The kitchen is fully run by the prison’s inmates, and serves a set 3-course menu for 90,000 pesos, which includes a starter, a main dish, a dessert and a fruit juice (which tastes amazing by the way). Alcohol and other drinks are extra. The food is inspired by traditional Colombian recipes – and is just ok. But Restaurante Interno is a lot more about the social cause than the food itself. The dining room is joyfully and colorfully decorated which adds to the whole positive aura of the place.

Highlight of the menu – the ceviche in coconut milk and plantains

Another good starter choice – Boronía de la región (eggplant)

Best Main Dish to order – Arroz caldoso con frutos del mar

Posta cartagenera (Colombian style black beef) – it tastes better than it looks – ahem (but not incredible either)

Reservations highly recommended

Interno has become the trendiest restaurant in Cartagena, as tourists and locals alike are heartened by and applaud the initiative – and rightfully so, as all proceeds go to resocialization projects for inmates.

⇒ The best seafood

• LA CEVICHERIA
  Calle Stuart 7, Cartagena
  (+57) 5 660 1492
  www.lacevicheriacartagena.com
  $$
  ♥♥♥♥

La Cevicheria is probably the most popular restaurant in Cartagena and the holy grail for – you guessed it – ceviche! Ever since Anthony Bourdain featured this local Old Town eatery in one of his episodes, it’s become the #1 spot on every tourist’s bucket list. Bourdain was probably biased as he’s good friends with the Chef Jorge Escandon, but they hype is justified regardless. This is the best place for fresh Caribbean catches at an affordable price.

No reservations!

Obligatory mixed ceviche

REAL SUPREME BASTIMENTO ISLAND WITH LOBSTER – Lobster, snail, shrimp in a coconut milk and oyster sauce curry. Fried plantain crackers on the side

The kitchen is open all day from 1pm, but the best way to experience La Cevicheria is for lunch in its outdoor tables. La Cevicheria takes no reservations, so a long wait is almost always expected – come at least thirty minutes before it opens for lunch, i.e. 12:30pm and enjoy the people-watching in this colorful colonial street.

The wait is shorter for indoor dining!

Order ceviche, of course, but also some of their daily specials, seafood stews and rice dishes

OCTOPUS WITH PEANUT SAUCE – Avocado salad, roasted pepper and coconut rice

• LA PERLA
  4 – 42 Calle de Ayos
  (+57) 5 6642157
  $$
  ♥♥

• 

  Modern dining room

  I know – you’re in Colombia, why would you want to go to a Peruvian restaurant. But truthfully, there are a lot of similarities in both cuisines, and let us not forget that ceviche is first and foremost from Peru (I’ve probably started a debate here)!  Peruvian food is all over Colombia, but if you want the best in Cartagena, La Perla is the place. Centrally located just one block from Plaza Santo Domingo, La Perla has a modern-chic dining room decorated in summer-like whites and sea blues, an inviting space for both lunch and dinner. Food-wise La Perla is famed for its seafood dishes, particularly the tiraditos and ceviche, to be paired with a Pisco Sour (or two or three!). You won’t need a reservation for lunch but make sure you call ahead for dinner bookings.

• 

  Must-orders: Peruvian ceviche & tiraditos

  

  Arroz de mariscos

• ⇒ For Fine Dining

• LA VITROLA
  Calle Baloco no. 33-201, Cartagena
  +(57) 5 6600711
  $$$$
  ♥♥
• 

Although it’s more of a Cuban spot, La Vitrola is one of the most quintessential Cartagena restaurants. This old town staple is known for being the best spot for local celebrity and politician spotting. Along with being the “it” place among the ruling elite, this was Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s favorite hangout! The bar and restaurant has a somewhat vintage Cuban ambiance, with great mojitos, a live salsa band and Caribbean seafood that will make you feel like you’ve been transported to 1940s Havana.This is a Cartagena classic and a must-stop if you manage to get a reservation (sometimes a hard task – call a few weeks ahead), more for the history of the place and the live music than for its food (which is just ok). Lunch seatings are a lot easier to come by, but La Vitrola has the best vibe at night!

Call ASAP to book a table!

• 

  I love La Vitrola’s Old Town classic architecture

  

  Cartagena must order: the ceviche

• RESTAURANTE 1621
  Sofitel Legend Santa Clara Cartagena, Calle Del Torno 39-29 Barrio San Diego
  (+57) 5 6504700
• www.restaurants.accorhotels.com
• $$$$
  ♥♥♥♥
• 

The Sofitel Santa Clara, one of the nicest hotels in Cartagena, is home to Restaurante 1621, a fancy restaurant in the city’s old town for a sophisticated dining experience in a gorgeous historical setting. The hotel used to be a convent and the nuns ate in what is now the restaurant dining room! No monk food here though, Restaurante 1621 mixes old and new world cuisines, serving high-end Caribbean dishes prepared with a French gourmet flair. The restaurant serves dinner only, and has the best atmosphere for a romantic dinner al fresco!

Book in advance!

• 

  Best for romantic al fresco dining!

  

  If you’re lucky enough to stay at the hotel or know someone , crash the pool!

• • • • 

        And snack on their shrimp ceviche

        CARMEN
        Calle 38 # 8-19, Calle del Santísimo
        +57 5 6645116
        www.carmencartagena.com
        $$$$
        ♥♥♥♥

      • 
      • 

        Al fresco dining

        On my first trip to Medellin, I was blown away by my meal at Carmen. So naturally, I had to come back to their Cartagena outpost. Carmen is a trendy, contemporary restaurant for the ultimate dining experience:  the decor is stunning (the Cartagena location has a super cute, greenery filled patio), the service is stellar, but the star of the show is the food.

• • • • 

        Duo Cangrejo

        

        “No me llames Cazuela” dish – funny name, gorgeous plating, delicious taste!

        

        Even the Carmen Salad is delish

        

        Pez Negro entree

        

        My favorite fish entree – DE BAHÍA SOLANO

        

        

        

        

        Carmen offers a creative and very refined take on regional flavors. I’d define it as a modern interpretation of Colombian fusion with influences and techniques from worldly high-end cuisines. Every dish is an explosion of flavors (and stunningly plated), the highlights being their appetizers and their fish entrées.

      • Reservations are a must.

Great wine list and cocktails as well. It’s pricey but the quality is such that no gringo will complain about the pricing! Open for lunch and dinner but best for date night.

• • • • 

        Amazing chocolate dessert
      

      Try to sit in their outdoor patio if it’s warm enough

      DONJUAN
      Historical Center Calle del Colegio, # 34-60 Local 1
      +57 (317) 501 14 15
      www.donjuancartagena.com
      $$$$
      ♥♥♥

    • 

Donjuán is an upscale Spanish restaurant for a refined Mediterranean twist on traditional Caribbean fare (so think lots of fish and seafood dishes with Basque ingredients). The chef cooked in no less than three of San Sebastian’s three Michelin star restaurants, so he knows what he’s doing! The restaurant’s owner also happens to be one of Colombia’s top mixologists, so along with the tasty tapas you’ll want to go there for their handcrafted cocktails. If it’s your first time, must-orders include the grilled octopus and the signature tiraditos.

• • Call for reservations – Closed Sundays

  • 

    Salmon Tiradito

    

    Pulpo a la brasa

    The airy stylish space and the international vibe (and the hefty prices!) will make you feel like you’re in LA or NYC rather than Colombia, but Donjuán is still a delicious option if you manage to book a table. The restaurant serves lunch on weekdays and dinner every night except Sundays.

  • 

    Stylish dining room

    MARIA 
    Historical Center Calle del Colegio, # 34-60 Local 2
    +57 (5) 660 53 80
    www.mariacartagena.com
    $$$$
    ♥♥♥

    

María is the slightly more casual, baby sister restaurant of neighboring Donjuán. Another great city-center option for contemporary Colombian cuisine with a lively, modern vibe. It’s known for its trendy interior with flamboyant details like a giant chandelier of mini white pineapples and colorful furnishings. The highlights at María, though, are the seafood dishes and crafted cocktails from master mixologists. It’s an elegant eating option but with an unpretentious (seasonally changing) menu and friendly service, although prices are on the expensive side. This is a great place for large groups, but make sure to book ahead of time.

Closed Sundays

Vibrant dining room great for groups (and how cool is that chandelier?)

• • MAREA by RAUSCH
    Centro de Convenciones Cartagena de Indias
    +57 5 6544205
  • www.mareabyrausch.com
  • $$$$
    ♥♥
• 

Marea is a modern seafood restaurant by the locally famous Rausch brothers. It’s a great restaurant for its sophisticated menu, but mostly for its location overlooking the harbor and walled city. It’s all about the scenery and ambiance, with delicious French-Colombian dishes as a bonus. Only con is the inconsistent service. Good for group dinners or date nights (book in advance online or by calling). If you’re in Bogota. make sure to check out Local by Rausch as well.

• Open every day.

• 

  Dining with a view – www.mareabyrausch.com

  

  Sophisticated dishes – www.mareabyrausch.com

• ALMA
  Calle de la Universidad No. 36-44
  +57 5 6810050
  www.almacolombia.com
  $$$$
  ♥♥

Alma is yet another fancy-ish fish restaurant with great dishes from the sea, but best for its bar and most of all, for its beautiful location. Situated in Hotel Casa San Augustin, the romantic decor, high ceilings, and live music in the courtyard makes Alma a dining oasis. If you can’t make dinner, come for their (pricey) great cocktails in a relaxing setting.

Pool-side dining in the courtyard

                 Order their Cazuela de Mariscos

• EL SANTISIMO
  Calle Del Torno #39-76
  +57 5 6601531
  www.elsantisimo.com
  $$$$
  ♥♥

El Santisimo is a great option if you’re sick of seafood or looking for a more straightforward approach to typical Cartagena cuisine. They might try to push for their prix-fixe but go for their à-la-carte menu, and make the most of their open bar / unlimited wine deals if you’re in the mood for a boozy night! And make sure you order their obatala, a slow-cooked beef served with coconut rice and plantains.

Make a booking online.

• • 

    Dining Room

    

    Obatala

    BOHEMIA
    Calle Nuestra Señora del Carmen No. 33 – 41
    +57 5 6644438
    www.bohemia.com,co
    $$$$
    ♥♥♥

Bohemia is one of the newer classy-trendy spots of Cartagena. The restaurant is located in the patio of El Marqués boutique hotel. The colonial architecture, the beautiful courtyards filled with luxurious plants, and the tranquil atmosphere make it a stunning place to have lunch or dinner. The food is defined as contemporary Colombian cuisine with Southern European influences. Think of it as a refined “farm-to-table” experience, with lots of veggies and seafood. The chef Andrés Hoyos works hand in hand with farmers from all over Colombia to bring the best local ingredients for this “evolving” cuisine.

Reservations recommended.

• • 
• • ⇒ For Casual Dining or Lunch 
  • LA COCINA DE PEPINA
    Callejón Vargas 9A-06, between Arsenal y Calle Larga, Getsemaní
    +57 5 6642944
    $$
    ♥♥♥♥
• 

La Cocina de Pepina is probably my favorite restaurant in Cartagena, and one of the most popular in Cartagena amongst both locals and visitors (Gabriel García Marquez was a regular!). This is a must-visit for an authentic local experience that will make you discover a whole array of new flavors. It’s a small, very casual, no-frills space in the hipster Getsemaní area (my favorite neighborhood).

• 

  Very casual dining space

  The setting is welcoming but nothing special. This is not the place for fine dining nor trendy mixologist concoctions – the sole purpose of coming to La Cocina de Pepina is for its unique, comforting food. La Cocina de Pepina serves incredibly creative takes on hearty, traditional Colombian dishes. This includes comfort food and saucy creations with fun names. Do not leave without trying their signature Cabeza de Gato (cat face!) or the city’s finest Mote de Queso, a soup made from local Colombian cheese. No stay in Cartagena is complete without a memorable dining experience at La Cocina de Pepina. The restaurant is always busy, so reservations are a must for dinner (call ahead) and for peak lunches.

  

  Do not leave without tasting its seafood soup!

• 

  Camarones en Aguacat

  

  Signature Cabeza de Gato – DELICIOUS!

  

  Other signature dish & must-order Mote de Queso: super decadent and interesting cheese soup!

  

  That cheese soup…!

  

  Other signature app – stuffed peppers

  

  Overcooked beef entree but delicious regardless

• LA MULATA
  Calle Quero 9 58 Sandiego
  +57 5 6646222
• www.lamulatacartagena.blogspot.com
  $$
  ♥♥♥

La Mulata is a casual eatery for affordable local food and fresh juices. Although it’s open for both lunch and dinner, La Mulata is a staple almuerzo spot in Cartagena, where local workers and tourists alike come for the great value for money. They have an unbeatable prix-fixe lunch, one of the best in town. Hearty seafood, pork, beef or chicken dishes are served, Caribbean style (think cazuelas style with plantains and rice). Do not leave without trying their signature Limonada de Coco.

• CAFFE LUNATICO
  Calle Espíritu Santo #29-184, Getsemaní
  +57 5 6601735
  $$
  ♥♥♥

Caffé Lunático is a popular food destination for travelers and hip Getsemaní locals alike. This casual eatery with a chill, bohemian vibe has an all-day kitchen breakfast, lunch, snacks and dinner, but I like it best in the mornings for their super affordable menú del día for lunch. The lunch deal is one of the best in Cartagena for Catalan-inspired dishes and tapas, or traditional Colombian recipes.

• • Closed on Sundays
  • 
  • ⇒ For Breakfast / Bakery
  • • LA ESQUINA DEL PAN DE BONO
      Carrera 6, Calle San Agustin Chiquita, Esquina
      +57 (314) 5028444
      $
      ♥♥♥
    • 
    • 
    • 

      Fresh made-to-order juices

      For a quick breakfast or snack, a quick hop by La Esquina de Bono is the way to go. The space is very simple and casual, but this is the local reference point for a quality bakery in Cartagena. Workers, students and tourists line up to buy their freshly baked goods and their made-to-order juices. Must orders are empanadas, pan de queso, and of course their warm, cheese filled pan de bono (the Colombian version of pão de queijo). They even have a selection of gluten-free breads (made with corn or yucca flour).

    • Cash only

  PASTELERIA MILA
  Calle de la Iglesia No 35-76
  +57 5 6644607
  www.mila.com.co/mila-pasteleria
  $$
  ♥♥♥♥
  

• 

• Mila is THE best bakery in Cartagena for higher end sweet treats, and also a great breakfast/brunch spot. It’s by far the best spot for sweet tooth cravings in the old town. There is a wide selection of cakes, and a bunch of flavored brownies. Chocolate lovers beware! This is the place for a coffee & dessert break, or for a cozy, delicious breakfast.

  

  The best breakfast spread in Cartagena at Mila

  

  Cute and clean dining room

  

  Signature breakfast item: arepas con huevo

  

  The best, fluffiest pancakes you’ll ever have!

  

  Their decadent Marquesa cake: chocolate, meringue and dulce de leche!

  

  Teeny version of their brownies with dulce de leche for an innocent treat

• ⇒ For Rooftops

• CAFE DEL MAR
  Baluarte de Santo Domingo., Cartagena
  +57 5 6646515
  www.cafedelmarcartagena.com.co
  $$
  ♥♥
• 

Cafe del Mar is the bar on every tourist’s bucket list for sunset drinks. Located on the ancient city wall of the historic center, this is where families, couples, and large groups gather for late afternoon drinks that might or might not lead to a wild night. There is a simple food menu, and the bar is open until 3am, but Cafe del Mar is best for sunset drinks exclusively. The touristy hype is a bit overrated, but overpriced drinks and cheesy DJ aside, the relaxed setting and view make it worth-while for a pre-dinner Club Colombia beer.

Large groups recommended to book a table!

• 

  Located right at the city walls

• ALQUIMICO BAR
  Calle del Colegio #34-24
  +57 318 845 0433
  www.alquimico.com
  $$
  ♥♥♥

Alquimico is one of the trendiest bars in Cartagena, located in the heart of the old town. The bar has 3 levels, including a rooftop which is where most of the crowd ends up. Cocktails are creative and dangerously delicious, and you can also order tapas style food. This is great for groups, for pre-dinner drinks or for a late night hang out. Alquimico has a lively but chill vibe and a fun crowd.

• MOVICH HOTEL
  Calle de Vélez Danies No. 4 39
  +57 5 6642995
  www.movichhotels.com
  $$$$
  ♥♥

Movich is a beautiful 5-star hotel located in one of the tallest buildings in the walled city of Cartagena. Hotel guests can enjoy an awesome rooftop pool (a rare find in Cartagena) with sweeping 360-degree views of the city, but the rooftop bar is also open to the public for drinks (and nibbles). The views are spectacular, and service is stellar. Best for sunset drinks!

Rooftop pool – movichhotels.com

• ⇒ For Drinks/ Nightlife

• • BAZURTO SOCIAL CLUB
    Getsemani,  Av. del Centenario
    +57 317 6481183
    www.bazurtosocialclub.com
    $$
    ♥♥♥♥
  • 

If there is one nightlife must in Cartagena, it’s Bazurto, located in Getsemani, just 5 minutes outside the old city walls. This place does technically qualify as a restaurant and bar, but you go to Bazurto to DANCE (and if you don’t know how to, you’ll learn)! I won’t say more, but expect Champeta & Mojitos and a unique night of Latin fun guaranteed! Great for groups.

Spoiler: you’ll be twerkin’!

• CAFE HAVANA
  Calle de la Media Luna & Calle de Guerrero, Esquina, Getsemaní
  +57 (314) 556 3905
  www.cafehavanacartagena.com
  $$
  ♥♥
• 

Obligatory Mojito @ Cafe Havana

Located right outside of the walls of the old town in hipster Getsemaní, Cafe Havana is the late-night hotspot for what will feel like a wild night in – you guessed it – Havana! The Cuban bar is as cliché as it gets, with Cuban decor details at every corner, mojitos flowing, men in white fedoras and an animated live salsa band. It’s undeniably a great ambiance, but the $25,000 pesos admission charge and the crazy crowd on busy nights will make it feel like a tourist trap. If you’re a dancer you’ll be guaranteed a fun night though!

Closed Monday & Tuesday

• LA MOVIDA 2-14
  2-14 #Calle 33
  +57 321 5875983
  $$$
  ♥♥

La Movida is one of the few bars/nightclubs open until late (i.e. dawn). It’s the favorite hangout for Cartagena’s young and wild to end their night. Good looking crowd, and several rooms including an outside area and indoor rooms with tables and dance floors. It gets super crowded, so make sure to get there early, or really late, or book table service, or all of the above!

• DEMENTE
  Plaza de la Trinidad, Getsemaní
  +57 5 6604226
  $$
  ♥♥♥
• 

Demente is a fun spot for the ultimate Getsemaní bar experience. It’s open 7 nights a week, on evenings only, and although it serves pizza & Spanish tapas, Demente is best for its bar scene. The trendy space is located in the heart of the coolest district of Cartagena in a 18th century ruin, giving it an intimate speakeasy vibe. Demente keeps it simple, in its menu, in its laid-back atmosphere, and its pricing. Join the cool kids for a local Dictador rum drink or beer on tap! Open after 6pm.

Great for groups

Back patio – great for groups

• • ⇒ For Beach eats
  • BLUE APPLE BEACH HOUSE
    Playa Mamon #1-1, Bocachica, Isla Tierra Bomba
    +57 316 7506979
    $$$
    ♥♥♥

Cartagena is surrounded by paradise beach islands (Rosario, Baru, etc), but Blue Apple Beach House is the only beach club in the area that’s just a 30-min boat ride away. In fact it’s the only proper beach club, period. Blue Apple is remotely located in the Southern part of Tierra Bomba Island. They have boats running all day with a private shuttle service (to be reserved in advance) leaving from Cartagena center (info here). Blue Apple is great for a day trip to relax (and a bit of party vibes, Ibiza style) by the pool and beach (which is definitely not the prettiest but still does the trick), or for a longer stay in the boutique hotel rooms. Either way, you have to have lunch here, the food is delicious and fresh, and beautifully plated! Great a group outing.

• • 

    Vegetable Carpaccio

    

    Ceviche of course

    

    Fish of the day on coconut rice

    

    Delicious Seafood Paella 

    

    Sunset at the beach club

  ⇒ For Street Food / Snacks

Exploring Colombian cuisine would not be complete without its snacks and street food. All over the streets of Cartagena are colorful fruit vendors, ice cream shops, and of course the obligatory arepa carts!  

• PORTAL DE LOS DULCES
• $
  ♥♥

Off the Plaza de los Coches, right as you enter the Old City’s main square, stands the sweetly named Portal de los Dulces, or “gateway of sweets.” Under the covered arcade, locals sell jars of handmade delicacies, including the local cocadas, an extremely sweet) chewy coconut candy. Look for the cocadas de guayaba, sweetened with guava juice for a bit less of a tooth ache. It’s not the most refined treat, and you will definitely be on a sugar high, but it’s a must-try.

1. LA PALETTERIA
   Calle de Ayos Number 03-86 | Local 2
   +57 5 6661579
   www.lapaletteria.co
   $
   ♥♥
   

Take a sweet break from Cartagena’s scorching heat with La Paletteria‘s unique dipped popsicles. These are like traditional paletas gone wild, with a large variety of flavors available, but go for the local ones (like the passion fruit). They even have some “light” versions with no added sugar and yogurt. There are a lot of other Paleta spots in Cartagena now, but La Paletteria is the best.

• 
• AREPAS AND EMPANADAS
• 

  Stuffed mean arepas

  If there is one food that is part of every Colombian’s daily diet, it’s most definately arepas. Second would be empanadas. Arepas are often eaten for breakfast, or as a snack any time of the day. They can be fried, stuffed, or topped with cheese, and are sold at every street corner around Colombia. Colombian empanadas are deep-fried (and some of the tastiest in South America) and to be eaten with a lot of green and red hot sauce. No stay in Colombia is complete without a daily dose of arepas and empanadas, it doesn’t get any more local than this!

• 

  These cheese arepas are sold all over the streets of Cartagena

• 

  Delicious fried beef empanadas with salsa verde

  

  Love the empanadas and other fried local snacks from Donde Magola at the end of Calle 38

  

  My favorite type of arepas – sweet corn flour with cream cheese (mostly found in Medellin though)

  

  This Ajibasco is the bomb and everywhere in Cartagena

• LOCAL FRUITS
  

My favorite part about wandering the streets of Colombia are the all tropical fruit markets and vendors. I don’t think I’ve ever had better fruits than in Colombia. Cartagena has the freshest fruits, including mangoes, fresh coconuts and papaya at every corner.

Cartagena fruit vendor in traditional clothing 

They’ll pose if you pay!

Or you can snap when they’re not looking 😉

How pretty are these different varieties of mangoes?

Carts of fresh fruits all over the streets of Cartagena – these are Ciruelas

BUEN PROVECHO!