You know what they call a Quarter Pounder with cheese in France? A Royale with cheese. And you know what they call the best burger on Bleecker Street? A Loyale with Cheese. An epic cheeseburger that has quickly become a New York staple at Chef John Fraser’s latest venture: The Loyal.
John Fraser is amongst the most respected chefs in New York City for his vegetable-forward, Michelin-starred cuisine. After Dovetail, Nix (one of my favorite vegetarian restaurants) and Narcissa, Chef Fraser expanded to the West Village in the former Pagani space, with a new American brasserie concept. At first glance, Fraser’s loyalists (pun intended) may be confused by this New York bistro and its meat-centric fare. Everything from the name to the hearty menu has a gastro-pubby feel to it.
Serves dinner daily and weekend brunch
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Must-order bites: P.H, Rolls ($8), Drunken Eggs ($8), Baby Romaine Kale Caesar ($14)
The something-for-everybody menu is full of crowd-pleasers executed with a unique twist: bar snacks, appetizers, a raw bar, pastas and a bunch of comfort-food entrees, including the awesome burger of course, served with a signature giant plum tomato and duck fat tater tots! Not all dishes at The Loyal have a wow factor, but many are incredibly satisfying. The chef creatively cooks up a wide array of modern American dishes with a European touch, all seasonal and shareable.
You can order the pastas as an appetizer or entree portion
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Artichoke Capellini, arugula pesto, parmesan (appetizer size $16)
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Truffle Polenta, broccoli, cheddar, sunchokes ($28)
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Mushroom Carbonara, pici, trumpets, guanciale (appetizer size $16)
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Mushroom Carbonara, pici, trumpets, guanciale (appetizer size $16)
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Cauliflower au Poivre, autumn puree, sofrito kale ($22) – you’ll recognize Chef Fraser’s vegetarian genius in this dish
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THE must-order Loyale with Cheese – Piedmontese Burger, comte, 22-step tomato, duck fat tots ($26)
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Loyale with Cheese x2! If you don’t want the duck fat tots side (what’s wrong with you?!) you can order the lobster mash or another side for a small supplement (nothing is wrong with you!)
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Stuffed Bistro Mushrooms ($10) – good as a side dish
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S’mores Baked Alaska, graham cracker, meringue ($12)
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Chocolate fluffy goodness inside the S’mores Baked Alaska, graham cracker, meringue ($12)
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Sweet potato dessert
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A chocolaty take on an Old Fashioned: Willy Wonka Cocktail – bourbon, pecan, dark chocolate bitters ($18)
As for drinks, The Loyal serves plenty of local beers and ciders on tap (again – gastro-pubby!) but also a wide selection of wine and interest in-house cocktails. Service is particularly friendly and accommodating.
Despite the white table-cloth and a few formal decor details, The Loyal has a casual tavern vibe (gastro-pubby’s the word!) and a familiar New York touch (the restaurant is designed by Home Studios, behind many of NYC’s most recognizable – gastro-pubby – brownish/tan accented interiors, like my neighborhood favorite for a burger & whiskey: The Spaniard).
Bar seats are saved for walk-ins with full dinner menu
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The Loyal dining room
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The loyal dining room in holiday mode
Dinner at The Loyal works for all kinds of occasions. It gets loud, but the crowd always includes people on (non-intimate) dates, girls/boys’ night out and small group gatherings.
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That burger and those duck tots though!